Category: Cleaning & Maintenance

All hort articles on sprayer cleaning and maintenance.

  • Diluting 20,000-Fold with a 30 Gallon Remaining Volume in a 1,200 Gallon Tank

    Diluting 20,000-Fold with a 30 Gallon Remaining Volume in a 1,200 Gallon Tank

    (This short article is an addendum to this article)

    Our goal in this example is to dilute by a factor of 20,000.

    The maximum amount of dilution possible with a 1,200 gallon tank and a 30 gallon remainder is 1200/30=40.

    The formulae:

    Dilution per Rinse = final dilution ^(1/# of rinses)

    Rinse Volume = (dilution per rinse * remaining volume) – remaining volume

    • One rinse diluting by 20,000 – impossible with a 1,200 gallon tank (max achievable is 40-fold);
    • Two sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/2) = 141. Also impossible with a 1,200 gallon tank;
    • Three sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/3) = 27. A volume of 780 gallons can do this  (27*30)-30=780 gallons. For three rinses, the total volume is 2,340 gallons.
    • Four sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/4) = 12. A volume of 330 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 1,320 gallons;
    • Five sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/5) = 7. A volume of 180 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 900 gallons;
    • Six sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/6) = 5.2. A volume of 126 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 757 gallons.

    Second, let’s assume the operator is prepared to prime the boom where it doesn’t harm soybeans. Now the first new product tank takes care of the last dilution, lowering the cleanout dilution requirement by 1,200/30 = a factor of 40. Now the cleanout dilution requirement is only 20,000/40 = 500.

    • One 1,200 gallon tank rinse can only achieve 40-fold dilution.
    • Two rinses, each diluting by 500^(1/2) = 22. Rinse volumes of 640 gallons are sufficient, for a total of 1,280 gallons.
    • Three sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 500^(1/3) = 7.9. A volume of 210 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 630 gallons;
    • Four sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 500^(1/4) = 4.7. A volume of 112 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 448 gallons.
  • How Clean is Clean?

    How Clean is Clean?

    One of the more perplexing questions in tank cleanout is knowing when the cleaning process is good enough to prevent harm. This question is especially relevant to producers that grow canola and use Group 2 herbicide products, or grow soybeans and use dicamba on some of their area. In both of these examples, crops can be extremely sensitive to very small residues.

    When does an applicator know that the cleaning job was good enough? In about two weeks! There is no easy way to tell, except to be precautionary.

    A bit of math can help put us in the ballpark. First, we need to know the tolerance of a crop to the herbicide, preferably expressed as a proportion of the tank mix to be cleaned. Let’s use dicamba as an example. It’s been reported that non-dicamba tolerant soybeans can show leaf-cupping symptoms from dicamba at rates as low as 1/20,000 of the label rate.

    Recall that sprayer cleanout is really two separate processes that we’ve written about here, here, and here. The first is dilution of the remaining volume in the system. The second is decontaminating specific sprayer components (filters, boom ends, hoses). We’ll focus on dilution in this article.

    If you’re diluting, the second piece of information you need is how much liquid is left in the sprayer when you start cleaning. All sprayers have a certain amount of liquid left in the tank and associated plumbing after the tank is empty. The sump, the suction line feeding the pump, and the lines returning to the tank via agitation or sparge are most common. Even when the pump no longer draws liquid, those lines retain some volume of product. This volume can’t be pushed out to the boom, most of it goes back to the tank.

    The volume of this “remaining liquid” is likely somewhere between three and thirty US gallons.

    The remainder volume depends on the sprayer, and also how the tank is emptied. Some applicators simply spray until the solution pump pressure drops, others choose to drain the remaining liquid from a sump valve. When draining, product should be captured in pails rather than allowing it on the ground where it will harm the soil and possibly make its way into runoff.

    It’s always preferable to spray the tank empty in a field.

    As we’ll see below, a low remaining volume greatly improves the efficiency of the dilution process. It’s a sprayer feature that should be considered at purchase.

    The table below has some sample calculations. Note that the paired cases (1&2, 3&4, 6&7) all use the same total water volume, but compare a single vs triple rinse of three different remaining volumes.

    Comparing Case 1 to Case 3 or Case 6, (remaining volumes of 10, 20, and 50, respectively), it’s clear that minimizing the remaining volume is important.

    It’s also striking that the same amount of clean water, subdivided into three smaller repeat batches (Case 2, 4 and 7), is much more powerful than using single batches with the same total clean water amounts.

    Reducing the size of each batch even further and increasing the number of batches (Case 5) approaches what a properly executed continuous rinse can do.

    Is it necessary to dilute to the level that’s safe for the next crop? Not always. The next product in the tank acts to dilute the remainder once again, possibly by a factor of 100, depending on the remaining volume and the tank size (Case 8). The material in the boom, however, won’t be diluted by this additional volume, and therefore may harm the crop unless it is first sprayed out elsewhere, especially when section ends are not drained and rinsed.

    This is where a recirculating boom is valuable, providing an opportunity to charge the boom without spraying. The penalty is that the boom volume is then returned to the tank in the process, increasing the amount that needs to be diluted.

    Let’s return to the dicamba example with a 20,000-fold dilution requirement and a 1,200 gallon tank. We’ll consider two examples. In the first, the operator wants to prime the boom in the soybean field without any harm to the dicamba-susceptible beans. A 20,000-fold dilution is needed.

    We’ve looked at five options that each assume a remaining volume of 10 gallons. Note that our goal is the same – dilute by a factor of 20,000.

    The formulae:

    Dilution per Rinse = final dilution ^(1/# of rinses)

    Rinse Volume = (dilution per rinse * remaining volume) – remaining volume

    The maximum amount of dilution possible with a 1,200 gallon tank and a 10 gallon remainder is 120 (see Row 8, Table above).

    • One rinse diluting by 20,000 – impossible with a 1,200 gallon tank (max achievable is 120-fold);
    • Two sequential rinses each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/2) = 141. Also impossible with a 1,200 gallon tank;
    • Three sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/3) = 27. A volume of 260 gallons can do this  (27*10)-10=260 gallons. For three rinses, the total volume is 780 gallons.
    • Four sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/4) = 12. A volume of 110 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 440 gallons;
    • Five sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 20,000^(1/5) = 7. A volume of 60 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 300 gallons.

    The first two examples don’t work because the tank isn’t big enough. But the three remaining examples all work equally well, they just consume different amounts of clean water.

    If that doesn’t seem like a lot of work, then repeat this calculation with a 30 gallon remainder volume, common on many sprayers. Short on time? We did it for you here.

    Second, let’s assume the operator is prepared to prime the boom where it doesn’t harm soybeans. Now the first new product tank takes care of the last dilution, lowering the cleanout dilution requirement by 1,200/10 = a factor of 120. Now the cleanout dilution requirement is only 20,000/120 = 166.

    • One 1,200 gallon tank rinse can only achieve 120-fold dilution.
    • Two rinses, each diluting by 166^(1/2) = 13. Rinse volumes of 120 gallons are sufficient, for a total of 240 gallons.
    • Three sequential rinses, each diluting by a factor of 166^(1/3) = 6. A volume of 50 gallons can do this, for a total volume of 150 gallons.

    The math is simple, and can be done using the formula in the first table, or this app:

    The hard part is knowing what the remaining volume is. It would be very useful for a manufacturer to provide this information.

    In the meantime, you can estimate on your own. Add water with surfactant to your tank, and spray it empty. While spraying, turn the agitation on and off to fill and activate the sparge, if equipped. Once the tank is empty and the spray pressure drops, stop and drain the sump into pails. Ensure that the pump suction line and the pressure line up to and including the agitation and sparge lines also drain. Disconnect these if necessary. If there is a filter housing in this circuit, remove it as well.  Avoid collecting liquid from the pressure line beyond where the the agitation or sparge split off, as this will be pushed out to the boom.

    An alternative is to estimate the length of hose in this circuit, using the following table as a guide:

    And remember, diluting the remaining liquid is only one part of a cleaning process.

  • Plumbing Projects That Make Spraying Easier and Safer

    Plumbing Projects That Make Spraying Easier and Safer

    Some of our biggest struggles in spraying involve the start and end of each spray day.

    When starting a new field after the sprayer is cleaned, we need to prime the boom. If it’s full of water, that water has to be purged and the question is always for how long and where to do this (pro tip at bottom of article).

    At the end of the day, we should ideally clean the sprayer. During that process, we may struggle with waste disposal, including large rinsate amounts, and course, the uncertainty of whether the job is actually done (since clean water looks exactly the same as contaminated water).

    If not cleaning the entire sprayer plumbing, we should at least rinse the boom, even if we’re returning to the same product the following day. It can prevent future problems.

    These tasks are complicated by the increasingly convoluted plumbing featured on modern sprayers. Ask someone to explain their sprayer’s plumbing system to you one day. It’s a long story! A bright spot is the well-engineered, compact, and accessible Agrifac system.

    Fortunately, virtually any sprayer can be modified to suit your needs. Let’s talk about a few ideas for a winter project:

    1. Boom flush. It’s good practice to flush clean water through your boom at the end of spraying even if the main tank remains full of product. Some sprayers have an air purge system to eliminate liquid from the plumbing and that is a great feature. A water flush should follow that purge so that any residual pesticide is diluted and removed before it can dry on and become hard to remove later.  First you’ll need a clean water tank on the sprayer (150 gal is enough). Second, plumb a feed so that this clean tank can be the sole source of the water supplied to the solution pump. Select this source, shut return lines down or off, and pump clean water through boom.  Sprayers that have an auto-rinse cycle will likely be able to draw clean water, but may not be able to push it to the boom, directing it to the wash-down nozzles instead. Check to see what’s possible, and make the changes you need.
    2. Clean water pump. Installing a second pump dedicated to the clean water tank has several advantages. We’ve talked about continuous rinsing before, here, and here, as a way to dilute the tank remainder faster. It requires installation of a second pump dedicated to clean water. Additionally, give this pump the option to deliver water to the boom, not just the wash-down nozzles. Now it can be used to rinse water through the boom. The main challenge is to obtain a pump capacity that can match the needs of the boom and/or the wash-down nozzles.
    3. Boom ends. We’ve mentioned this part of the boom many times. Boom ends must be flushed regularly to get rid of product and possibly debris that gets stuck there. A simple way to achieve this is to use the Express Nozzle Body End Caps from Hypro. These bleed air continuously, and also prevent accumulation of dead-end contamination. They do need to be flushed, and this can be done by pulling a plug or rotating the turret to an open (no nozzle ) position.
    1. Recirculating boom. This is a significant change, but worth considering. Conventional plumbed booms are separated into five to 13 sections. Each has two ends at which the spray stops and where air and contamination can accumulate (see point #3). Each section feed has a shutoff valve.  Once the spray mixture leaves the pump and bypass valve, it is committed to leaving the sprayer.  In a recirculating boom, the boom becomes a part of the tank and the liquid can return to the tank if desired. Spray is pressurized at one or both ends, and valve positions determine its flow. Sectional control is achieved with individual nozzle shutoff, air or electric.
      1. Three advantages:
        (a) the boom can be primed with new product without spraying. The surplus goes back to the tank.
        (b) the boom can be flushed with water without spraying while material is still in tank, and without spilling anything on the ground. Again, the surplus goes back to the tank.
        (c)  high resolution sectional control with individual nozzle shutoff is a byproduct of this design. Fast response, high res, saves money.
    2. Steel lines. Steel cleans easier than plastic, and this material makes a lot of sense for booms. But it also makes sense for the boom feeds, currently handled by black rubber hose.  This hose is a literal black box. We can’t see inside it, and we don’t know if and where potential contamination resides. It has considerable surface area. Consider replacing portions of your feed lines with steel. The boom is the obvious candidate. Aside from easier cleanout, it also helps with faster nozzle shutoff because it doesn’t expand with pressure.

    A word about dumping the tank on the ground. It’s a bad practice for many reasons. Let’s examine just one of those. When you spray a product at 10 gpa, you actually cover each square meter with about 10 mL, or 1/3 oz, of spray mix. When you flush your boom ends on the ground, you’re probably dropping 2 or 3 gallons in the same area. That’s 1000 times the label rate at each boom end, 10 to 26 times per boom. If you dump your tank remainder and all the hoses, say 20 or 30 gallons, that’s 10,000 times the label rate if it covers 1 sq meter. That’s leaching, runoff, residual potential, and not a good story.

    Many of the changes we outlined above help prevent that from being necessary.

    Pro Tip: To find out how much water your plumbing (from the pump to the boom ends) holds, do this: After cleaning with water and before spraying an EC formulation (white milky appearance in tank, some crop oils are ECs) reset your sprayed gallons on your rate controller. Start spraying and watch for the last nozzle on your furthest and longest section to spray white. Stop spraying and check your sprayed gallons. That’s your volume. No matter the size of nozzle or application volume, it stays constant. To be sure the boom is primed with a new mix, spray until those gallons are reached and you’re set.

  • Storing Pesticide Mix Overnight

    Storing Pesticide Mix Overnight

    Not being able to finish a tank due to weather or any other reason happens to just about everyone. Is it OK to simply leave the sprayer as is, and resume spraying later after some agitation?

    In many cases, the answer is yes. Most pesticide mixtures are stable in short term storage. On resuming spraying, an agitation could be all that’s needed to get back to where you started a day or so earlier.

    But there are three important exceptions.

    When the active ingredient is formulated as a suspension. Suspensions are typically wettable powders and flowables, and rely on a clay carrier to distribute the active in the tank. Because clay is denser than water, these formulations settle out quickly after agitation stops. Sure, they can be brought back into suspension with vigorous agitation. But in lines and booms, boom ends and screens, dislodging a settled clay carrier is much more difficult. It’s also hard to tell if the cleaning has been successful because the problem spots are hidden.

    The best solution is to flush the spray boom with water before materials can settle and lodge. A visual inspection where access is possible, such as strainer bowls and boom ends, is part of the process to ensure the formulated product has been removed.

    Learn to identify which formulations are suspensions. There’s lots of jargon out there. Look for terms such as DC, DF, DG, DS, F, Gr, SP. Even EC formulations are suspensions (oil in water) and require agitation.

    When the active ingredient is chemically unstable. Some pesticides can degrade in the tank, usually due to alkaline (high pH) hydrolysis. The effect is very pesticide specific, but in general, insecticides (particularly organophosphates and carbamates) are more susceptible than other pesticides. This fact sheet by Michigan State University describes the impact of pH on a the half-life of a large number of pesticides.

    Note that in the examples in the MSU fact sheets, pesticide half lives are typically days and weeks, and only rarely hours. Also note that while high pH is most often problematic, low pH can lead to faster breakdown in a small number of products.

    Ensuring tank mix stability requires a pH meter or paper, and possibly a pH modifier such as citric acid. But do your research first! Here’s an article on pH and water quality.

    When the tank previously contained a product known to harm the current crop. This situation is most common and most difficult to address. Some examples from western Canada are Group 2 modes of action sprayed prior to a canola crop. Why are Group 2 products implicated?  Many are formulated as dry products on a clay base, and these can settle in boom ends, adhere to tank walls, or get stuck on screens. Their solubility is pH dependent, as we explain in this article.

    Canola is particularly sensitive to this mode of action, and the most common canola herbicides, Liberty and glyphosate, are formulated with strong detergents that act as tank cleaners.

    Even when applicators think that their tank is clean, they can’t actually be sure and can’t do much about it at that stage. The stripping of tiny amounts of residue off the tank walls, filter screens, or plumbing, can happen during a mid-day stop or an overnight break.  Applicators eventually find out that this happened, usually about two weeks after spraying.

    Our advice is:

    After spraying a herbicide to which a subsequent crop may be sensitive, with the classic case being a Group 2 and moving to canola, be extra diligent with cleaning and pay attention to the tank walls, all screens, and boom ends.

    The best way to solve issues is to avoid them in the first place. If the weather looks unsettled and may interrupt your spray operation, consider mixing smaller batches that can be sprayed out completely even if conditions change quickly. This allows you to rinse the tank and spray water through the boom, thus avoiding a contamination problem developing overnight.

    If that’s not possible, at least do not let a tank mix sit in the boom overnight. Instead, use your clean water tank to push water through the boom prior to storage and double check the screens. The following day, prime the boom with your tank mix as usual and resume spraying the crop.

    If you’re not sure that your sprayer can draw from the clean water tank and push through the booms (the wash-down nozzles are, after all, the intended destination for that water), decipher your system and add the necessary valves that make this possible.

    A useful design that helps flush and prime a boom quickly is the recirculating boom offered by some aftermarket boom manufacturers. These booms are also more common on European sprayers. A nice feature of such designs is that the tank contents can be pumped through the entire boom assembly without actually spraying. This ensures that the boom is primed without any soil contamination. It also dilutes whatever residue there may be in the boom plumbing with the entire tank, likely reducing its concentration enough to be of little concern.

    An additional feature of recirculating booms is that many offer stainless steel tubing throughout most of their feed and return length, minimizing the black rubber hose products that often adsorb, and later release, herbicide contamination.

    Even if a wholesale boom or sprayer change is impractical, consider switching to steel boom lines and tanks tank to minimize residue carryover.

    As is often the case in the spraying business, prevention is easier and less costly than solving a big problem later. Spray mix storage is one of those examples where a small amount of extra effort at the beginning can pay big dividends later.

  • How to Properly Set Up a Crop Sprayer

    How to Properly Set Up a Crop Sprayer

    Article reprinted with kind permission from an original article written by Oliver Hill in the February, 2017 edition of Farmers Weekly. Photos ©Kathy Horniblow.

    Crop spraying is one of the most important and highly skilled jobs undertaken on any arable farm, but it is facing increased public scrutiny. This is why it is vital that the kit you use as a means to apply pesticide to crops is in prime working order and is set up correctly to deliver the product safely and accurately to its target. Optimum sprayer set up will help to maximize the efficacy of applied products, reduce spray drift and keep machinery in good condition.

    For this best practice guide to sprayer set up, Farmers Weekly teamed up with former Farm Sprayer Operator of the Year Iain Robertson. Mr. Robertson is assistant arable farm manager at David Foot Ltd, a 2,200ha mixed farm south of Dorchester in Dorset, growing wheat, barley, beans, oilseed rape and maize as forage for the farm’s three dairy herds. The machine used for this guide is a Bateman RB26 self-propelled sprayer and while most of these checks and tests are universally applicable to all sprayers, it is also important to refer to the handbook of the manufacturer of your specific machine.

    Watch the video tutorial with Mr. Robertson and then see the step-by-step guide below for more detail.

    Pre Start Checks

    Before firing up the engine, the first thing to do is your pre-start checks – that means checking your machine’s vital fluids like fuel, hydraulic oil, hydrostatic oil, engine oil and coolant levels. If yours is a self-propelled sprayer, chances are you’ll need to get up on to the back of the machine to check some of these.

    “While I’m up on the back of the sprayer I also have a quick look in the top of the tank to make sure that it is nice and clean and the tank rinse nozzles have worked properly – cleanliness is next to godliness,” says Mr. Robertson. Next, move on to the tires. Use a pressure gauge to check all tires are at the correct pressure and refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines. If you’ve got a trailed sprayer, don’t forget to check the tractor tire pressures as well.

    Aim for tires to be run at the lowest pressure recommended for the load to be carried. This will help with boom height and stability and also helps tires act like a shock absorber to ride out bumps. If using a trailed sprayer, use a spirit level to ensure that the drawbar is level. Mr. Robertson says he tries to work around the machine in a methodical, clockwise manner to ensure that he doesn’t miss anything.

    Coming to the pumps, check that they have got enough oil, check that any tool boxes have enough spare parts and any equipment needed and make sure you are carrying a spill kit with absorbent granules and a spade in case the worst happens and there is a spillage. Make sure all parts are lubricated daily and that any grease nipples are cleaned before and after use to avoid them collecting dirt and blocking.

    Check all hydraulic hoses, spray lines and air lines for any signs of wear that could result in problems while operating.

    It’s best to run the sprayer at a minimum of 5 bar to check for leaks. Also check the spray tank is fixed down securely, all straps and bolts are tight.

    Boom checks

    Once opened out, check the boom has good movement in the x- and y-axis. All machines are different so check with your manufacturer as to how the boom is set up. Mr Robertson’s Bateman has tie rods and stock bots that can be adjusted to set the boom up to ride well.

    Check the tie rod nearest the back of the machine is slightly loose when moving and that the front rod is tight. Next, check for up and down movement by gently pushing the boom down by about 50cm and letting go. The boom should return to the central position without too much bouncing around.

    “We want a little bit of movement but not excessive so that you can ride over the bumps as you go along without over- and under-dosing the crop,” says Mr. Robertson. Boom height is one of the most critical factors when spraying and the ideal height is 50cm above the crop. One of the easiest ways to work this out is by using a cable tie that is cut off at the correct length to use a visual aid from the sprayer cab.

    Don’t forget to measure from the tip of the nozzle to the crop, not the spray line.

    Good sprayer cleanliness is important, so make sure the system is rinsed through at the end of each day with clean water to make sure there’s no residue left in the boom. If your machine’s boom doesn’t have recirculation, remember to take the end caps off occasionally and flush out the whole boom.

    Nozzle checks

    Check that the nozzles are aligned both vertically and horizontally, according to the NSTS guidelines. Loosen clamps to adjust any nozzles that need realignment.

    Check the nozzle output at least twice a year by running the sprayer with clean water at 3 bar pressure. Time the output of each nozzle for 30 seconds. If nozzles have been used previously, it’s best to check their output against that of a new pair. Mr Robertson advises using a measuring cylinder rather than a jug to measure the flow rate as a jug is less accurate “because you get a bigger variation over the wider surface area”.

    With an 03 nozzle running for one minute at 3 bar pressure, the output should be 1.2 litres/minute as a rule of thumb but refer to the nozzle manufacturer’s output chart for the expected flow rate. “An easy way to remember this is: at 3 bar your nozzle size multiplied by four will give you your target litres/minute output. It works for all nozzle sizes.” If the output varies more than 4% of the average, or if the spray pattern visually doesn’t look correct, you need to change the nozzle set.

    After checking the output, cross-reference this figure with the rate controller – you may need to adjust the flow figures to ensure that the two correlate. If a nozzle becomes blocked while spraying, Mr. Robertson says he will swap it for a new one and then clean it later using a toothbrush or airline. Never blow through a nozzle with your mouth.

    Nozzle choice

    The choice of nozzle is highly dependent on the sort of job you’re doing. “Timing is crucial but using the right nozzle at the right time will make the job so much easier, cut drift and mean that you’re getting more of the product where you want it to go. If you aim at it you will hit it,” says Mr. Robertson.

    His nozzle of choice is an 03 size and he prefers to use the Defy 3D nozzle alternated forwards and backwards across the boom for pre-emergence work and T0 applications as well as the T3 ear spray. “In less than optimum conditions I may prefer to use the Amistar/Guardian Air, a fine induction nozzle. I would use this at T1 and T2 and also in sub-optimum conditions.”  This nozzle has a 3-star Local Environmental Risk Assessment for Pesticides (LERAP) rating and is 75% drift reducing.

    A water volume of 100 litres/ha is a good rate for spring fungicide application. It provides enough coverage for good disease control and allows maximum efficiency from the sprayer.

    Forward speed

    The third and final part of reducing spray drift is forward speed. Depending on nozzle size and water volume, aim to travel at 12kph.

    Mr Robertson says he finds that this speed gives a good overall output and means you don’t get shadowing or turbulence behind the machine.

    Tips and tricks

    One of the biggest risk of contamination is at fill up. “A fantastic, cheap trick that I learned through Farm Sprayer Operator of the Year is to take a 200 litre plastic drum and cut it in half to create two drip trays to catch any spillages under the induction hopper and the tank overfill.” This eliminates point source contamination, he says.

    “Finally, there’s a plethora of information out there on the internet, loads of good apps to download. The technology is there to help us do the best job possible and make our job as safe as possible.”