Category: Cleaning & Maintenance

All hort articles on sprayer cleaning and maintenance.

Testing and Correcting Airblast Pressure

The role of pressure is often underappreciated in spraying. Many airblast operators (still) don’t use rate controllers, so the only way to monitor sprayer pressure is using a single liquid-filled pressure gauge located near the pump… and it may not be trustworthy. An inaccurate pressure gauge may cause you to spray more or less product than you intended. That translates to wasted resources and potentially higher residue levels. Conversely, spraying less than intended may lead to reduced efficacy and the need to re-apply. Many operators use budget pressure gauges on their sprayers and have never tested or replaced them.

Testing pressure gauges

Here are a few clear indications that your pressure gauge should be retired:

Gauge has an opaque or unreadable face
Mineral oil leaking or mostly gone
Needle does not rest on zero pin when sprayer is not under pressure (it has likely spiked)

Sometimes a gauge is not obviously in need of replacement. To test it, you need to apply a known pressure to see if it is reading accurately. One way to do this is using a commercial manometer.

AAMS-SALVARANI Gauge tester — AAMS-SALVARANI manometer

These systems work well, but they can be an expensive proposition if you only use them once in a while. In a past sprayer workshop, one participant had a great suggestion for testing gauges. His idea was to use an air compressor (which most farms have) and some simple plumbing to create a homemade manometer. Be sure to vent the gauges before testing.

The Pressure Gauge Tester. The “true” gauge is in the elbow and can be compared to the suspect gauge in the tee. Concept from K. Voege, Ontario. — The “Pressure Gauge Tester”. The accurate gauge is in the elbow and is compared to the suspect gauge in the tee. Concept: K. Voege, Ontario.

This tool allows you to test your suspect gauge (set in the tee) against an accurate gauge (set in the elbow) for less than $75.00 CAD. Construct your own “Pressure Gauge Tester” using the following parts (valve optional):

Part	Approx. Price (CAD)
¼” by 3” Galvanized nipples (x 2)	$3.50
¼” Galvanized 90º elbow	$3.50
¼” Galvanized Tee	$3.50
¼” Ball valve (threaded)	$10.00
*Plug Air Connector (A over ¼”)	$4.00
Teflon pipe tape	$3.00
†300 psi liquid-filled gauge	$40.00
*Depending on the quick-connect fitting on your compressor
†The range of the accurate gauge should match your existing gauge. The range of your existing gauge should be twice as much as your typical operating pressure.

As a public service announcement, be aware that many budget, liquid-filled gauges are inaccurate right off the shelf. A 5% variance is typical. When replacing a worn gauge, or buying the “accurate” test gauge for your homemade manometer, buy a few and save the receipt. Test them in different combinations to ensure they all agree with one another. Return the extras and let the dealer know if you discover an inaccurate gauge. I’m sure they won’t put it back on the shelf for the next person… *ahem*.

Gauges should be rated twice as high as your average operating pressure. For example, if you typically spray at 150 psi, your should have a gauge rated up to 300 psi. That way, you can see small changes in pressure more clearly. Plus, if your needle is pointing straight up, a quick glance confirms the ideal operating pressure.

Another way to confirm pressure gauge accuracy is to install a second in-line. They’ll keep one another honest. This may be difficult if the gauge set into a molded plastic tank, or located under the chassis next to the pump where it is not visible from the tractor.

Two gauges keep each other honest – this GB (Italian-made Good Boy) is sporting a home-made assembly that cost ~$50 to assemble, including the second gauge. The silver spray paint on the black pipe prevents rust and makes it look pretty darn sharp. — Two gauges keep each other honest – this GB (Italian-made Good Boy) is sporting a home-made assembly that cost ~$75 CAD to assemble. The silver spray paint on the black pipe prevents rust and makes it look pretty darn sharp. Note that they should be the same range, but are not in this photo. The one on the right is the correct range for this operating pressure.

Measuring and Correcting for Pressure Drop

Boom pressure can sometimes be less than the desired operating pressure (a phenomenon known as “pressure drop”) and must be accounted for. Pressure drop is affected by hose diameter, hose fittings, and the distance from the pump. You’ll find it at the far ends of boom sections on field sprayers and it’s an issue that plagues many low-pressure, tower-style sprayers. Dress appropriately because you’re going to get wet performing this diagnostic.

Fill a clean sprayer about half-full with water.
Install a liquid-filled test gauge in the highest nozzle position of one of the booms. The image below shows how the nozzle cap or entire nozzle body may need to be removed for this step. For Metric fittings, contact your sprayer dealer – they can be hard to find.
With the tractor parked, bring up the rpms and get the lines to the desired operating pressure.
Open the boom(s) and measure the pressure at the nozzle farthest from the pump. All nozzles on all booms should be open during this test. That’s why you are wearing PPE.
For positive displacement pumps, adjust the main pressure regulator until the test gauge reads the desired pressure. For centrifugal pumps, it is possible to make small changes to the pressure, but more important to note any pressure differential for later considerations regarding nozzle output and spray quality.

There are many ways to install a gauge onto a nozzle body. Here are three examples of common fittings.

Switching between multi and single boom operation

When sprayers that employ a positive-displacement pump are switched to one-sided operation (E.g., border spraying or during turns), the pressure can change considerably. Most units will experience a pressure increase, thereby increasing the boom output. This is typically an indication of a faulty relief valve, which is positioned between the pump and nozzles. It’s actuated by a spring-loaded piston or diaphragm, opening and closing in response to changes in pressure. The operator sets the desired pressure and any additional pressure forces the valve open, diverting excess flow back to the tank via a bypass.

Spraying from one boom. This operator checked to make sure the pressure didn’t increase when he closed the second boom. High pressures or sudden spikes could indicate a faulty regulator valve. — Spraying from one boom. This operator checked to make sure the pressure didn’t increase when he closed the second boom. High pressures or sudden spikes could indicate a faulty relief valve.

This problem can be greatly reduced by properly sizing the regulator (specifically the spring) to the typical operating pressure. Many sprayers come equipped with regulator springs matched to the maximum pressure range of the pump (often 600 – 900 psi). These springs are unable to respond to changes when operating at lower pressures (E.g., 100-200 psi, which is typical of applications to moderately-sized canopies).

The springs are so stiff that the liquid pressure is unable to act on the spring and the valve essentially acts as a flow control (throttling) valve rather than a pressure control valve. Liquid pressure is difficult to control using a throttling valve; it is unable to compensate if the tractor engine speed drops while driving uphill and sprayer output is subsequently reduced. Further, this phenomenon can cause pressure gauges to spike.

Valve springs and seats wear out, such as in this regulator assembly. Check yours each season. If you spray using moderate pressures, be sure your regulator spring can compensate for small changes.

Some sprayer designs attempt to compensate for excess flow during single-boom operation. They employ an additional throttling valve to shunt the volume that would normally would be spraying out through the closed boom. The result is that the pressure should remain constant when a single boom is shut off. If your sprayer has this feature, here’s how you set the valve:

With PTO at application speed and both booms open, adjust regulator to calibrated operating pressure.
Close one boom.
If pressure increases, open throttling valve to achieve calibrated operating pressure. If pressure decreases, close throttling valve to achieve calibrated operating pressure.
Repeat process for the other boom, and find a compromise position for the valve.

Some operators elect to remove the handle from the throttling valve once it is set so they don’t accidentally bump it later. That’s fine, but further adjustments may be required when transitioning between dilute and concentrated volumes, so don’t lose the handle.

Here’s an oldie-but-a-goodie filmed in New Hampshire in June, 2014. It’s something to keep in mind when you’re getting your sprayer ready for spring service. Thanks to Chazzbo Media and Penn State Extension for making an unscripted and spur-of-the-moment concept into a polished video.

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November 3, 2021

Selecting a Sprayer Pump
When I had to replace a pump on a small scale sprayer, I had a lot of questions about how they worked, their capacities, hose sizes, mounting solutions and fittings. I turned to the Pentair Hypro Shurflo catalog and found a very helpful guide on pages 2 – 10. This article summarizes the steps recommended in the catalog.
Select Pump Style
Sprayer pumps can be divided into two categories: Positive Displacement Pumps and Non-Positive Displacement Pumps.
Positive Displacement Pumps
These include Roller, Diaphragm and Piston pumps. They are self-priming and traditionally operate at high pressures. Flow from these pumps is directly proportional to the pump speed, which is why they require a relief valve and bypass line between the pump outlet and the nozzle shut-off valve.
- Roller pumps : This is the most popular pump with farmers world-wide. The seal and roller materials should be selected based on their compatibilities with the pesticides.
- Diaphragm pumps : These compact pumps are popular for use with abrasive and corrosive pesticides. Their oil-filled piston chambers protect the pump materials.
- Piston pumps : Similar to car engines, these pumps are relatively low-flow and high-pressure and suited for use with handguns sprayers. The piston cup materials should be selected based on their compatibilities with the pesticides.
Non-Positive Displacement Pumps
These include Turbine (or Transfer) and Centrifugal pumps. They must be primed and traditionally operate at low to medium pressures, although there are models available that can go up to 190 psi. Flow from these durable pumps comes from a rotating impeller that feeds liquid through the lines instead of pumping “per stroke”. Therefore, if the outlet is closed for brief periods, the impeller spins harmlessly, so a relief valve is not needed.
Determine PTO Pump Drive
When selecting a pump, you must specify the shaft rotation. Hypro suggests two steps for determining the required rotation:
1. Eyes on the End: Face the rotating Power Take-Off (PTO) and determine if it is spinning clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise (CCW).
2. Opposites Attract: The pump must rotate opposite to the PTO. For example, if the PTO rotates CW, then the pump must rotate CCW and vice versa.
You should also be aware of your tractors’ horse power, and in order to determine the size of pump shaft, you should know the spline dimensions (e.g. 1-3/8″ (6 spline) pto shaft or 1-3/8″ 21-spline pto shaft).
Determine Pressure and Flow Requirements
In order to size the pump, you have to know the sprayer settings, such as intended application rate, average ground speed, agitation requirements, etc. Most can be calculated form the following formulae (provided in US and Metric units):
Calculating Agitation Requirements
- Liquids :
Tank Volume (US gal.) × 0.05 = Agitation Requirement (gpm)
Tank Volume (L) × 0.05 = Agitation Requirement (L/min.)
- Wettable Powders and Flowables
Tank Volume (US gal.) × 0.125 = Agitation Requirement (gpm)
Tank Volume (L) × 0.125 = Agitation Requirement (L/min.)
If the sprayer has a hydraulic agitation system equipped with a jet, it multiplies the agitation output without the need for additional flow. For example, it might have a 1 gpm input flow and boost it to a 10 gpm output. This savings should be accounted for:
Agitation Requirement (gpm) × (Input ÷ Output) = Total Agitation (gpm)
Agitation Requirement (L/min.) × (Input ÷ Output) = Total Agitation (L/min.)
Therefore, if you calculate a 60 gpm requirement for agitation, and have a jet that boosts the output 3:1:
60 gpm x (1 / 3) = 20 (gpm)
Calculating Nozzle Requirements
Once the agitation requirements are accounted for, you have to account for nozzles. The calculations are a little different for each sprayer, but they amount to the same thing – Total flow in US Gallons per minute or Litres per minute. Here is the calculation for a boom sprayer. For an airblast sprayer, assuming you are spraying every row, substitute “Row Spacing” for “Boom width”.
Total Flow Requirement (gpm) = [Output (gpa) x Ground Speed (mph) × Boom width (ft)] ÷ 495
Total Flow Requirement (L/min.) = [Output (L/ha) x Ground Speed (km/h) × Boom width (m)] ÷ 600
When the flow requirement for agitation and the flow requirement for the nozzles have been calculated, they are added together. It is important not to under-size the pump, so always factor in an extra 20% to compensate for changes in performance (such as pump wear and slower ground speeds) and restrictions in the plumbing systems that can cause pressure drops between the pump and nozzles, as follows:
(Agitation Requirement + Nozzle Requirement) × 1.2 = Total Flow Requirement
Finally, be sure to account for any other flow requirements, such as tank rinsing nozzles and hose length/diameter (which causes pressure drops), and have some idea how you want to place the pump relative to the tractor and sprayer. If you prepare all this information, you can quickly and easily discuss your options with the retailer and select the pump that best suits your needs.
For more information on various types of pumps, check out this article by Dr. Bob Wolf:
January 15, 2021
Pressure Spikes and Relief Valves on Air-Assist Sprayers
A properly-sized pump should produce more flow than is needed and work in conjunction with the atomizers to regulate that flow. Typical to high pressure pumps, a piston relief valve (aka regulator) should maintain the desired system pressure through the normal speed range of the sprayer, regardless of the number of booms (or boom-sections) that are on or off. This is achieved by balancing the sprayer pressure against the relief valve spring, which must move freely across a range of flows.
But what does it mean when the pressure gauge briefly spikes off-scale when boom are turned on or off? This is bad for the gauge and will eventually cause it to fail. Quite often, pressure spikes are an indication of one of two things:
- A dirty or stuck valve
- An inappropriate spring size
A pressure gauge spiking beyond its range.
Relief valve maintenance
Sometimes, pressure spikes indicate a need for valve cleaning and maintenance.
- The regulator spring cavity may be packed with dirt, which limits valve travel. Clean the housing and spring, and then lubricate and adjust.
- The regulator may be partially seized or sticky. If the regulator piston and cylinder bores are caked with spray they will ‘hold’ the valve until the pressure/spring balance overcomes the friction.
- Sometimes valve, and/or the valve guide pin are seized. Disassemble them, clean all sliding surfaces, then lubricate and adjust.
- Valve/seat wear may have created a leak. You may have already tightened the spring to compensate, but this loads the spring past the pressure balance point you want to spray at. This means that when the booms are shut off, the pressure increases until it reaches the ‘new’ spring balance point. Repair (or replace) the regulator, then lubricate and adjust. Be aware that any leak (external or internal) can contribute to this condition and tightening the spring isn’t the solution.
- The spring may be damaged (e.g. bent, corroded, etc.). Replace the spring, lubricate and adjust.
Note: Be sure to read the operator’s manual before you do anything. You should understand your sprayer’s design before you perform any maintenance, adjustments or calibration.
Spring size
Sometimes, the relief valve may be mechanically sound, but the spring may not be sized to match a reduced operating pressure. Relief valve springs match the maximum pressure range of the pump. Sprayers operated at lower pressure may be unable to compress the spring. This is common when people switch from disc-core nozzles operated at higher pressure to molded nozzles operated at lower pressure.
This would manifest when one boom is shut off for single-boom operation; there may not be enough pressure to open the bypass. As a result, flow increases over the remaining boom.
Recognizing this problem, some operators have teed-in a second relief valve capable of finer adjustments at lower pressures. Make sure you know what you’re doing if you’re considering this option.
Technically, a spring can either be too weak, or too heavy:
- The spring may be too weak for the pressure being used (i.e. any adjustment bottoms out). In order to obtain sufficient pressure the operator tightens the spring until it is virtually collapsed, essentially creating a fixed orifice. When the booms are closed the ‘fixed orifice’ doesn’t compensate and pressure rises to force the increased flow through that small orifice.
- If the spring is too heavy for the pressure being used (any adjustment barely touches the spring when pump is turned off). In this case, the pressure being used will not deflect the spring, so the operator closes the regulator until the ‘fixed orifice’ creates sufficient restriction to flow to achieve the desired pressure. When the booms are closed the ‘fixed orifice’ doesn’t compensate and pressure rises to force the increased flow through, or until the spring begins to deflect.
- In either situation the spring must be sized so it is in the centre-third of its flex range (i.e. rest state > fully collapsed) at the desired pressure. You can buy springs from the sprayer dealer or hardware supply. Try to maintain original length and diameter of the coil, while varying the diameter of the wire.
Engineering
In some cases, it is not a matter of valve maintenance, or spring size, but poor engineering. Consider the following:
- The valve supply and return may be too small for the pump flow. Consult hose and fitting catalogs for flow capacities and lengths. Re-size the hoses and fittings appropriately, and then adjust the regulator.
- There may be kinks or sharp bends in in the supply and return lines. Re-route the hoses and/or fittings to avoid kinks and sharp bends, and then adjust the regulator.
- The relief valve may be too small for the pump flow. Consult a regulator catalog for flow capacities and replace the regulator with an appropriate size. Calibrate the regulator spring and adjust.
- Relief valves have a ‘cracking’ pressure (that’s when the valve just starts to open). Well-designed regulators have small pressure changes from ‘cracking’ to full flow. That information is in their catalogs. Poorly designed regulators have large pressure changes between these two ratings and these regulators should be avoided.
- The pump may be too big for system. This often happens when sprayers are upgraded and pumps are replaced. Consult the catalogs and reduce pump size or speed, or increase the sizes of the hoses, fittings and regulator.
- There may be a hydraulic agitator jet on the regulator ‘tank’ line. An agitator jet applies considerable back pressure to a system, and when booms are closed the increased flow causes more than a linear increase in pressure.
- Broadly, the sprayer system as a whole may be poorly engineered. Inspect and draw a flow path of the sprayer system. Examine where everything is going (or not going). Is it possible someone made changes that the manufacturer did not intend? Consult the manufacturer if you are uncertain. Sometimes, it will have to be re-engineered, which may require expert consultation.
Note: Your pressure gauge can tell you a lot more than your operating pressure – it can indicate a problem with your regulator, pump, lines or overall sprayer engineering. Don’t ignore it – address it.
Thanks to Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic, for his contribution to this article.
January 13, 2021
Sprayer Wheel Maintenance
This article was co-written with Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic.
Sprayer wheel assemblies should be cleaned and inspected as part of regular annual maintenance. Wheel bearing maintenance before long-term storage may prevent water from corroding the bearings. The exploded diagram details the parts found in a typical trailed air-assist sprayer wheel assembly.
Exploded diagram of typical airblast sprayer wheel assembly.
The following procedure was performed on a 2012 Durand-Wayland sprayer by Mr. Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic and renowned “Sprayer Whisperer”. The steps are applicable to most sprayer makes and models. The entire process should take approximately half-an-hour per wheel.
Step 1
Empty the sprayer and park it in a well-lit, level spot. Un-hitch the tractor and raise one side of the sprayer using a bottle or floor jack to clear the wheel. Secure the sprayer with a jack stand.
Raise with one jack, secure with another.
Step 2
Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off the hub. Do not remove the wheel and hub together because it is heavy and you might bang the delicate seal on the spindle. Check the wheel rim for signs of corrosion or distortion (often caused by either loose or over-tightened lug nuts). Check the tread for wear or cuts and check the tire pressure.
Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off the hub.
Step 3
Remove the hub cap and pull out the cotter pin. Then remove the nut and washer that hold the hub on the spindle. Put all the small parts in a plastic container with some de-greaser (e.g. Varsol) to clean the parts and keep them from getting lost.
Remove the nut and washer that hold the hub on the spindle.
Step 4
Knock out the seal and hub bearing and put them in the plastic container. Unless it is damaged, there should be no need to remove the bearing cup (or race) from the hub. The seal is designed to keep dirt out of the assembly, not to keep grease from escaping. Be sure to note which way it is facing. The seal is often ruined during disassembly; have a replacement on hand.
Knock out the seal and hub bearing.
Step 5
Clean the old grease out of the hub. This hub has too much and it has filled much of the air space (or cavity) within the hub. That air space is provided so grease is not forced out as the hub heats up, and so dirt is not pulled in as the hub cools. Note the colour of the grease – if it is black and stains your hands, it has burned because too much grease has caused overheating. Look for evidence of dirt or water in the bearing, which indicates seal failure.
Clean the old grease out of the hub.
Step 6
Wipe dirt from the spindle. Never pressure-wash wheels when they are on the spindles because the spray drives dirt and water past the seal and into the hub. Inspect the sealing surface of the spindle for damage or wear.
Wipe dirt from the spindle.
Step 7
Clean the seal thoroughly. Seals are easily damaged and may need replacement.
Clean the seal thoroughly.
Step 8
Clean the hub bearing. Compressed air is a good way to get all the old grease out, but do not spin the bearing with the air.
Clean the hub bearing.
Step 9
Look for scratching, pitting or blue metal (indicating heat). This scorch mark indicates the bearing was moving on the spindle, and the friction created heat. Agricultural wheel bearings do not fit tight to the spindles. If there is too much clearance, the bearing race will turn on the spindle where it is not supposed to.
Look for scratching, pitting or blue metal (indicating heat).
Step 10
Repack the bearings, reassemble the hub and re-grease the hub. Bearings should only be ~40% full. Too much grease creates heat and does not let the bearing roll properly. Too little increases friction. No matter which grease you choose to use, never combine greases; they may not be chemically compatible.
Re-pack and reassemble.
Step 11
Mount the hub tightly on the spindle. Replace the washer, cotter pin, nut and cap. There is no need to bend the arms of a cotter pin all the way back – it weakens the metal. Just bend one arm to 90° and cut off the excess. Use anti-seize on the wheel pilot to make the rim easier to remove next time.
Mount the hub tightly on the spindle.
Some airblast sprayers (such as this Durand-Wayland) have wheel assemblies that can be rotated to four different positions in the chassis. This will raise or lower the sprayer to better align it with the tractor hitch and PTO shaft.
Step 12
Replace the wheel and rim. Do not grease the lug nuts or they might loosen. Over- or under-torqueing lug nuts can cause damage. Look in the manual for your correct torque and consider using a torque wrench. Tighten the nuts in a star-shaped pattern – not sequentially.
Replace the wheel and rim.
January 10, 2021
Airblast Maintenance Inspection – the Morning Walkaround
An airblast sprayer inspection is part of preventative maintenance. This daily activity identifies small problems before they become big ones. You can do it at the filling station, so it’s fairly convenient.
Don’t think of it as stealing time from your spray day… it’s part of your spray day. Don’t skip it. If time is tight there are many other ways to improve your work rate.
This spray plane was left on the runway with the engine exposed for less than four hours. When the owners returned they found a precocious bird had built a nest! Perform regular sprayer inspections – you never know what you’ll find. Photo Credit – S. Richard, New Brunswick.
Note: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (as indicated on the product label), including hearing protection.
Inspection steps
Follow this generic inspection process. If your sprayer manufacturer or manager advises additional steps, be sure to perform them.
Before filling
1. Work with a rinsed sprayer parked on level ground (e.g. the filling station).
2. Check lines/hoses and fittings for signs of wear or cracking. Leaks or bulging may only become apparent under pressure (see Test spray).
3. Filters, screens, strainers and nozzles are clean and unbroken. Leaks may only become apparent under pressure (see Test spray).
As a plastic suction filter ages, it can warp or become brittle. When this happens, the O-ring may no longer sit correctly and the unit may allow air to be drawn into the lines. They should be cleaned and inspected when the sprayer is rinsed.
4. Engage each nozzle shut-off valve or nozzle body flip position. They can seize or loosen with time.
Begin filling
5. Begin filling the sprayer 1/2 full with water.
6. For PTO-driven sprayers, confirm universal joint(s), sprayer-tractor hitch and all connections are clean, lubricated and secure.
7. Check that all guards (e.g. PTO shaft shield) are in place and intact.
8. Ensure fan blades are unbroken and scraped clean. Intake grill(s) must also be clean and unbroken.
9. When 1/2 full, stop filling and check tire pressure (tractor and sprayer).
Test spray
For multi-row sprayers, you may have to move the sprayer off the fill pad for the test spray; it’s easier with the air off, if possible. Perform the following steps:
10. Open the manifold valve to fill the lines and begin spraying clean water.
11. Ensure each nozzle sprays correctly. Get out of the cab to inspect, don’t just shoulder-check. This gives the opportunity to double-check for line-bulges and leaks.
12. Ensure the agitation / bypass system is functioning properly.
13. Check that the tank is secure on the chassis and both crack and leak-free.
Complete filling
Continue filling. Once the sprayer is back up to 1/2 full, mix products per usual. If your sprayer manufacturer advises contrary or additional steps for a sprayer inspection, be sure to perform them.
Checklist
Download Walkaround Checklist
Sprayer inspections become repetitive, so it’s easy to accidentally miss things. Have you ever driven home while preoccupied, only to discover you don’t remember how you got there? Download our checklist to keep you engaged and to help ensure accuracy. Consider printing and laminating it for repeated use with a dry-erase marker.
You never know what you’ll find during an inspection. I found a robin’s nest hidden on this vineyard sprayer’s pump.
Anyone that operates heavy machinery should perform a preventative maintenance inspection before using the equipment. It’s no different for airblast sprayer operators; embrace the daily walkaround.
February 10, 2020