Category: Sanitation and Maintenance

For basics category

Sprayer Cleanout and Cleaner Selection

Editor’s Note: Changes have been made to this article since its original publication in 2015.

When in-crop spraying is around the corner, sprayer tank clean out is an important topic to address on your farm. Many farms have done the same clean-out routine for years and not had any issues with contaminating residues in the tank resulting in crop damage. Although the old saying “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” definitely has some merit, in this case it is good to question whether your cleanout routine is adequate. When you consider the way chemicals have changed over the years, especially the higher reliance on oily surfactants in modern chemicals, it makes sense why we need to pay attention to spray tank cleanout.

The goal of cleaning the tank is to remove and dilute the previous chemical formulation as much as possible to prevent buildup and carryover of residues which can cause crop damage on non-target crops.

Safety First

Always wear safety gear before working around chemicals. Although it can be a hassle, we all know that it is no fun spilling chemical on your clothes and skin. What’s even worse is smelling it all day in the sprayer cab. I use a long waterproof coat, a plastic face shield to prevent back splash when spiking jugs, and of course rubber gloves (No judgment on me looking like a total dork please:).

1 – Get the Previous Product Out of the Tank ASAP

In my experiences spraying, I have always tried to get the previous product out of the tank as soon as possible. Spraying the extra product out of the tank is the safest and most environmentally responsible way to rid your tank of left over product. Dr. Tom Wolf of AgriMetrix Research and Training, states that spraying a crop twice is usually safe, as all herbicides must be registered to be sprayed at twice the rate in order to be registered by the Pest Management Regulatory Agency (PMRA). If one lets the product sit in the tank overnight before beginning the cleanout, there is more time for product to congeal and adhere to the tank and plumbing components.

I open the valve ends on my filters to empty the buildup in the bottom of the filter canister. There is often chemical residue or green slime from dug-out water in here. Next I like to go along my booms and empty out all the chemical product within the boom plumbing. Our farm runs a Patriot 4420 sprayer, with valves on each boom section to empty out product. Usually I will go to the sprayer and tip the boom ends up so that gravity allows all of the product to drain out. Then I raise the centre rack, and tip end of booms down to force the product to drain out the other way. You would be amazed at how much product comes out by doing this both directions!

Tipping the boom ends up with the centre rack down.

While the tank is empty and no pump is running, I will remove all the filters on the sprayer, and grab the handy dandy toothbrush – this is the most valuable tool in filter cleanout! This brush is just small enough to get it in the centre of the filter and scrub all of the residue and gunk out of the filters. A pail filled with rinsing solution is an easy way to clean filters and nozzles.

Possibly the most important cleaning tool. Don't put it back in the bathroom afterwards. — Possibly the most important cleaning tool. Don’t put it back in the bathroom afterwards.

2 – Begin Rinsing Process

I used to always put about 1,000 gallons of water to our 1,200 gallon tank, thinking that a larger volume would clean all areas of the tank better, but I’ve since changed my thinking. Research has shown that two or three smaller rinses *aka triple rinsing) is more effective for rinsing the tank than one large volume rinse. I always crank the agitation up to high and allow the cleaning solution to agitate for as long as possible.

Nowadays I try to do three 400 gallon rinses.

1st Rinse	Cleaning product plus 400 gallons water
2nd Rinse	Cleaning product plus 400 gallons water
3rd Rinse	400 gallons of just water to rinse, and run through plumbing system to check nozzles and for leaks

Many labels Recommend leaving the rinsing solution in the tank and lines overnight. This will allow more chemical deposits to loosen up. If an operator is forced to speed up the tank cleaning process due to limited time, they must understand that there are risks involved in doing a less thorough tank cleaning.

Cleaning Products

Detergent or ammonia? Check the label. If the label doesn’t specify, you can consult this table from Winfield United.

Detergent Cleaner	Ammonia
Solution contains an adjuvant	Sulfonylureas (SU’s)
Solution contains a milky looking component (an Emulsion or EC)	Thiencarbazone – methyl
Glufonsinate	Flucarbazone
Imi’s (Group 2)	Dicamba
Simplicity

Detergent (e.g. All Clear)

This detergent cleaner is specifically designed to remove pesticide deposits and other debris, including oily substances from booms, filters, and nozzles. Use All Clear (or other detergent cleaner) if the solution is milky-looking (called an emulsion), which means it is oil-based.

Label rate is 0.25 L of All Clear/100 L of water.
If you are adding 400 gal of water, you will only need 3.78 L of cleaning product.
Decontamination rate is double this: 7.57 L of cleaning product. Use this rate if you have had residue issues, or to do a more thorough cleaning.

pH Increaser (aka Ammonia; e.g. Flush)

This is an ammonia based cleaning solution. This product is used to raise the pH to increase solubility of most Group 2 products (from FMC, Bayer, and Corteva but not BASF). Flush contains 7% ammonia. Use Flush (or other ammonia based cleaner) for most cleaning, but especially for Group 2 products listed above, such as Varro, and Velocity M3, Express, Refine, Muster, and Spectrum.

Label Rate is 0.50 L of Flush/100 L of water.
If you are adding 400 gal of water, you will need exactly 7.57 L of cleaning solution.

A pail and detergent are "must-haves" during sprayer cleanup. — A pail and detergent are “must-haves” during sprayer cleanup.

Combo Products

Alternately, some solutions raise pH without ammonia. FS Rinseout is sodium hydroxide based, not ammonia based. It is a high alkaline solution that elevates and holds the pH combined with strong surfactants to help clean the tank. Another is CleanOut, which uses potassium hydroxide and disodium metasilicate, a detergent. In both cases they are both pH increases and detergents.

3 – Draining the Rinse Solution

After I have ensured all nozzles are working correctly, and there are no leaks in the system, I drain out all of the rinse water, fold in the booms, and get ready to fill the tank with chemical solution for spraying!

More Information

Learn where residue can hide. This video was filmed for the Environmental Farm Plan with the nice people at Clean Field Services in Drayton, Ontario. Hardly the height of our acting careers, but good messaging nonetheless.

April 11, 2025

Airblast Spring Start-up and Winterizing
Any description of airblast sprayer start-up must, contextually, make assumptions on how it was winterized for long-term storage. This cyclic relationship is why I use a chicken-and-egg title slide when giving this presentation.
Answer: It was the rooster.
The inability to describe one process without the other is further complicated by the possibility that the sprayer is brand new and was therefore never winterized. So, what follows is an attempt at a logical sequence of pre-season maintenance activities to restore a winterized sprayer, or initiate a new sprayer.
New Equipment
If this is a new sprayer, you have an opportunity to perform some preventative maintenance.
Loosen, lubricate and re-tighten clamps. Always back gears off before tightening to avoid stretching them. (Image from Purdue Extension publication PPP-121: Preparing Spray Equipment for Winter Storage and Spring Startup)
Use double clamps on pressurized lines for added safety. Wider clamps are better and T-bolt clamps are better than worm-gear.
Put thread release on bolts and re-tighten with a torque wrench (not an impact tool). Use a paint pen to mark nut, washer and bolt for future visual checks. This is called a “Witness Mark”.
Protect hoses and wires at rub points. Follow hoses and with a paint pen, number the hose-ends and connections for future reference.
Using a new tractor? You may have to re-calibrate to account for different gear ratios. When hitching a new sprayer, note that the distance from the ball on the drawbar hitch to the tip of the PTO should be ~14″. Don’t exceed maximum working angles for PTO shafts (usually <25 degrees). If your tractor or implement manufacturer says differently, go with that. And get it in writing.
Winterizing (Long-term storage)
If you are preparing the sprayer for long-term storage, follow the normal rinsing process, but don’t reinstall strainers and nozzles.
Look in the nozzle bodies for debris. Discard worn or broken nozzles.
Soak, scrub, rinse and store nozzles and nozzle strainers. You may replace them once the sprayer is clean, but I prefer to store them separately since they have to come back off during start-up.
With the agitation on, circulate undiluted plumbing antifreeze (the sprayer already has 5-10 L (1.25-2.5 gallons) of water in the system from the decontamination process) for five minutes and drain it through the plumbing system (not the booms).
Disconnect hoses where they attach to the booms and drain as much liquid from the sprayer as possible. (Image from Munckhof Sprayers). Take the time to examine any hose fittings.
Clean the sprayer (Triple rinse with a detergent) and scrub the exterior. Do not use pressure washers on bearings, fittings, pumps or any lubricated or moving parts.
Examine fan blades for cracks, build-up or nicks that can cause imbalance. Replace (not just repair) punctured entrance grills.
Don’t ignore tank damage. Poly tanks are prone to sun damage and cracks. Never climb into a tank to repair it. Quite often, replacement is the best option.
Clean and inspect wheel assemblies. It’s best to do this during winterization to prevent bearing corrosion as the sprayer sits all winter.
Remove any rust and repaint (or just touch up). Paint not only looks good, it protects.
The excellent YouTube channel Ask Tractor Mike proposed storing the PTO shaft indoors in two pieces, and to cut away a portion of the interior guard to facilitate reassembly later on. Also, use a paint pen to mark the splines on the shaft for easier hook-up (see inset top-right of image).
RV antifreeze is a 50% solution of antifreeze and water with a rust inhibitor. It should not cause phytotoxicity if sprayed or dumped, but be sure to dispose of it away from water sources during start-up. Turn the pump manually to get antifreeze throughout the system. Close the nozzle bodies, loosely fit the tank lid and store indoors. (Image from Purdue Extension publication PPP-121: Preparing Spray Equipment for Winter Storage and Spring Startup).
Spring Start-up
Most operators are guilty of neglecting their airblast sprayers and babying their tractors. Sprayers are precision tools that must be kept in good operating order to prevent costly breakdowns, improve their performance, and increase their lifespan.
Your car is serviced based on distance travelled. Your sprayer should receive regular maintenance based on working hours, per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Daily sprayer inspections are part of regular maintenance since the operator will (hopefully) find small problems before they become big problems.
Never assume your sprayers is ready to go right out of long-term storage. Parts seize, scale breaks away from surfaces, and small beasties sometimes choose to eat, or make their homes in, cozy sprayers.
When planning spring start-up, never assume the winterized sprayer is ready for immediate hook-up. Expect a minimum half day per sprayer.
Attempting to loosen or shift something that hasn’t moved in several months is risky. Pressure gauges snap off, fittings crack, welds break. Expect the unexpected and either have spare parts on hand, or a plan to get them quickly.
Parts are most likely to seize during the first spray. Bearings and PTO universal joints, especially.
Start-up is a good time to lubricate parts. Grease the guard ring bearing every 100 hours, the universal joint cross every 25 hours and the shaft and shear bolt regularly.
Insects, birds and rodents eat, or make homes in, sprayers. Professional rodent bait/traps, steel wool and peppermint oil/gel are possible solutions.
Check belt tension, alignment and wear. (Image from Purdue Extension publication PPP-121: Preparing Spray Equipment for Winter Storage and Spring Startup).
Pump specific maintenance is beyond the scope of this article. Hypro recommends changing oil after 40 hours of break-in operation and every 500 hours after that. The diaphragms should be replaced every 1,000 hours. Generally speaking, EPDM (black) diaphragms are a better choice for airblast sprayers, while the Desmopan (amber) diaphragms are really for lawn care sprayers.
Pump maintenance is beyond this article, but change the oil every 500 hr or 3 months. Use a paint pen to write on the pump what type of oil it requires, and then date the filters. Note the “winterized” sticker.
At minimum, check the tire pressure. Hard tires drive faster, but leave compacted ruts. Soft tires drive slower, but disperse weight better. Airblast sprayer wheel assemblies should be cleaned and inspected as part of regular annual maintenance. Wheel bearing maintenance before long-term storage may prevent water from corroding the bearings.
Ensure tire pressure matches the ideal stamped on the tire. Or, if using less pressure to avoid spring soil compaction, ensure both tires have the same pressure.
The relief valve on your sprayer should always be in the bypass position during start-up. If your gauge spikes then the gauge may always read high afterwards and should be replaced.
A reminder to always set the relief valve to the bypass position when starting up the sprayer. This is one reason why pressure gauges spike and can eventually fail.
Replacing leaking, opaque or inaccurate gauges improves sprayer performance. Be sure to use the oil-filled variety of gauge to eliminate a bouncing needle. You can also get suppressors that fit between the gauge and sprayer to prevent pulsing. Consult the article on testing airblast pressure gauge reliability.
Use a wrench to turn gauges at the nut. Don’t twist them by hand holding the face. Ensure they are not opaque, leaking, plugged or resting above the zero pin.
Many spray materials do not mix well and one of the common causes of uneven application is poor agitation. If you find deposits at the sump in the bottom of the sprayer after an application, your agitation is insufficient. For mechanical agitators, check for propeller wear and ensure paddles are secure on the agitator shaft. Learn more about agitation here.
If the agitator shaft is leaking a little, tighten the packing. The packing gland is a common source of leaks. Keep it properly greased. If a leak occurs you can usually repair it by tightening the bolts on the packing gland by ½ a turn, but if that doesn’t work you may have to remove and repack (or replace) it.
On sprayers with mechanical agitators, look for prop wear and loose or damaged paddles. Fill the sprayer with water and looks for tank leaks. Tighten the bolts 1/2 turn if the packing gland on the agitator shaft is leaking. You may have to remove and repack the gland if the leak persists.
Look for signs of hose wear and examine the sprayer for leaks while under pressure. Be careful when pressurizing the sprayer for the first time in the spring; this is when lines are likely to come loose or burst. (Image from Purdue Extension publication PPP-121: Preparing Spray Equipment for Winter Storage and Spring Startup).
Minerals chelate (i.e. scale) more readily on stainless steel than plastic tanks. In either case, the first tank of water and leftover antifreeze should be sprayed from the nozzle bodies with no line or nozzle strainers, and no nozzles. Replace them once the tank is sprayed out.
The last step is calibrating the sprayer, and that process really depends on your definition. If the preceding steps conflict with those of the manufacturer’s, always follow the manufacturer’s. Do this for reasons of safety and to preserve any warranty.
Thanks to Fred Whitford (Purdue University), Gail Amos and Mark Ledebuhr (Application Insight LLC) for reviewing the content of this article and for their helpful edits.
March 29, 2025
Clean Your Nozzles
When operators winterize their sprayers, they should remove all the tips and store them separately. Many store them in large pails with lids. Calibrating the sprayer just prior to winterizing will indicate if the nozzles should be stored, or replaced. Let’s assume each tip flow rate is within 5% of the average output and no more than 5% more than the manufacturer’s pressure tables. Yes, industry standard is 10%, but I always wonder how the spray quality suffers with that much wear. Nozzles are, comparatively, a cheap replacement and it’s not worth skimping. Learn more how to check nozzle flow rate, here.
Just like any other part of the sprayer that comes in contact with spray liquid, nozzles (and strainers) should be cleaned regularly. And, just like any other part of the plumbing, the best way to do that is to dilute any residues via a series of rinses. For a more rigorous cleaning, one of the intermediate rinses should include a detergent, and soaking during this step is an excellent practice.
The orifice of any nozzle is delicate, either machined or molded to exacting standards. Even small changes to the orifice shape results in distorted spray (e.g. spray comes out at undesirable angles), a change to the rate (typically more volume per minute) and a change in the spray quality (typically larger median droplet size). If foreign objects or residues remain in the tips, the subsequent spray job may be less accurate and even damage the tips.
In the case of air induction nozzles, which are essentially the standard on most boom sprayers, debris and weed seeds can plug the air-intake ports. When that happens, the nozzle will not function as intended. So, while the occasional soaking of nozzles does a great deal of good, they may also have to be scrubbed. Don’t use picks or reamers! There are nozzle cleaning tools out there, but they’re basically toothbrushes so save your old ones (and mark them clearly). Soft bristles are the way to go for removing stubborn residues and cleaning any tip orifices, but we found a nifty new way:
Occasionally we receive photos like the one below and we’re asked what we think. Well, just the same way we don’t recommend cleaning your sprayer overalls in the family clothes washer, we also don’t recommend the use of dishwashers for nozzles.
Not a great idea. Certainly not if you intend to ever use this dishwasher for anything else. And where does the rinsate go?
In an interesting experiment, Lucas Olenick of Wilger tried cleaning tips in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. We haven’t tested this and we don’t know what heat and vibration might do to poly and ceramic components, but surely it’s no more aggressive than hot, soapy water and a bristle brush. Lucas tried several durations with and without detergent and arrived at this recipe:
“For tough, non-water-soluble pesticides, around 8+ hours in a heated ultra-sonic cleaner with (Dawn) dish soap to come out like brand new. Other solvents may speed this up, but I’d generally suggest against heating solvents at any concentration. For water-soluble pesticides, expect to be within the 3-6+ hours for the first time to be confident enough in not having to flow-test each of the nozzles. With any pesticides, ensure proper care in handling contaminated nozzles and rinsate after cleaning nozzles.”
The mad genius of Lucas Olenick (@WilgerParts) who used dish detergent and a heated sonic cleaner to unplug tips. Be sure to dispose of rinsate safely. Photo credit: Lucas Olenick.
Don’t have a heated sonic cleaner? No problem. Here’s a step by step:
1. Wearing gloves, remove all nozzles, strainers, rubber gaskets and tips from the sprayer.
2. Put them in a large plastic pail and cover them in warm water. Leave them to soak.
3. Drain the pail, but be aware that the rinsate will have pesticide residue.
4. Fill a second pail with a solution of the same commercial detergent used to clean the sprayer.
5. With a toothbrush, scrub the caps, gaskets, strainers and nozzles to remove any residue. Some nozzles can be pulled apart to expose the mixing chamber and facilitate cleaning.
6. Once scrubbed, leave all the parts to soak in the detergent solution.
7. Drain the solution, which will contain trace amounts of pesticide, rinse the parts with water and reassemble the nozzles.
While you’re at it, drop those filters and scrub them alongside the tips. This may seem extreme, but of all the technology on a sprayer, the nozzle has the biggest impact on the effectiveness and efficiency of the spray job. Take the opportunity over the winter months to clean and inspect the tips for damage so the sprayer is ready for calibration in the spring.
Soak, scrub, rinse and store nozzles and nozzle strainers. You may replace them once the sprayer is clean, but I prefer to store then separately. Photo credit: Jason Boersma (@RVFBoys), Ridge Valley Farms, Ontario.
Thanks to Jason Boersma (@RVFBoys), Ridge Valley Farms, Ontario, who sparked this article with his tweet: “Great job for a cold winter day, soak & clean all your tips to be ready for spring also saves on down time!”
September 22, 2022
Pressure Spikes and Relief Valves on Air-Assist Sprayers
A properly-sized pump should produce more flow than is needed and work in conjunction with the atomizers to regulate that flow. Typical to high pressure pumps, a piston relief valve (aka regulator) should maintain the desired system pressure through the normal speed range of the sprayer, regardless of the number of booms (or boom-sections) that are on or off. This is achieved by balancing the sprayer pressure against the relief valve spring, which must move freely across a range of flows.
But what does it mean when the pressure gauge briefly spikes off-scale when boom are turned on or off? This is bad for the gauge and will eventually cause it to fail. Quite often, pressure spikes are an indication of one of two things:
- A dirty or stuck valve
- An inappropriate spring size
A pressure gauge spiking beyond its range.
Relief valve maintenance
Sometimes, pressure spikes indicate a need for valve cleaning and maintenance.
- The regulator spring cavity may be packed with dirt, which limits valve travel. Clean the housing and spring, and then lubricate and adjust.
- The regulator may be partially seized or sticky. If the regulator piston and cylinder bores are caked with spray they will ‘hold’ the valve until the pressure/spring balance overcomes the friction.
- Sometimes valve, and/or the valve guide pin are seized. Disassemble them, clean all sliding surfaces, then lubricate and adjust.
- Valve/seat wear may have created a leak. You may have already tightened the spring to compensate, but this loads the spring past the pressure balance point you want to spray at. This means that when the booms are shut off, the pressure increases until it reaches the ‘new’ spring balance point. Repair (or replace) the regulator, then lubricate and adjust. Be aware that any leak (external or internal) can contribute to this condition and tightening the spring isn’t the solution.
- The spring may be damaged (e.g. bent, corroded, etc.). Replace the spring, lubricate and adjust.
Note: Be sure to read the operator’s manual before you do anything. You should understand your sprayer’s design before you perform any maintenance, adjustments or calibration.
Spring size
Sometimes, the relief valve may be mechanically sound, but the spring may not be sized to match a reduced operating pressure. Relief valve springs match the maximum pressure range of the pump. Sprayers operated at lower pressure may be unable to compress the spring. This is common when people switch from disc-core nozzles operated at higher pressure to molded nozzles operated at lower pressure.
This would manifest when one boom is shut off for single-boom operation; there may not be enough pressure to open the bypass. As a result, flow increases over the remaining boom.
Recognizing this problem, some operators have teed-in a second relief valve capable of finer adjustments at lower pressures. Make sure you know what you’re doing if you’re considering this option.
Technically, a spring can either be too weak, or too heavy:
- The spring may be too weak for the pressure being used (i.e. any adjustment bottoms out). In order to obtain sufficient pressure the operator tightens the spring until it is virtually collapsed, essentially creating a fixed orifice. When the booms are closed the ‘fixed orifice’ doesn’t compensate and pressure rises to force the increased flow through that small orifice.
- If the spring is too heavy for the pressure being used (any adjustment barely touches the spring when pump is turned off). In this case, the pressure being used will not deflect the spring, so the operator closes the regulator until the ‘fixed orifice’ creates sufficient restriction to flow to achieve the desired pressure. When the booms are closed the ‘fixed orifice’ doesn’t compensate and pressure rises to force the increased flow through, or until the spring begins to deflect.
- In either situation the spring must be sized so it is in the centre-third of its flex range (i.e. rest state > fully collapsed) at the desired pressure. You can buy springs from the sprayer dealer or hardware supply. Try to maintain original length and diameter of the coil, while varying the diameter of the wire.
Engineering
In some cases, it is not a matter of valve maintenance, or spring size, but poor engineering. Consider the following:
- The valve supply and return may be too small for the pump flow. Consult hose and fitting catalogs for flow capacities and lengths. Re-size the hoses and fittings appropriately, and then adjust the regulator.
- There may be kinks or sharp bends in in the supply and return lines. Re-route the hoses and/or fittings to avoid kinks and sharp bends, and then adjust the regulator.
- The relief valve may be too small for the pump flow. Consult a regulator catalog for flow capacities and replace the regulator with an appropriate size. Calibrate the regulator spring and adjust.
- Relief valves have a ‘cracking’ pressure (that’s when the valve just starts to open). Well-designed regulators have small pressure changes from ‘cracking’ to full flow. That information is in their catalogs. Poorly designed regulators have large pressure changes between these two ratings and these regulators should be avoided.
- The pump may be too big for system. This often happens when sprayers are upgraded and pumps are replaced. Consult the catalogs and reduce pump size or speed, or increase the sizes of the hoses, fittings and regulator.
- There may be a hydraulic agitator jet on the regulator ‘tank’ line. An agitator jet applies considerable back pressure to a system, and when booms are closed the increased flow causes more than a linear increase in pressure.
- Broadly, the sprayer system as a whole may be poorly engineered. Inspect and draw a flow path of the sprayer system. Examine where everything is going (or not going). Is it possible someone made changes that the manufacturer did not intend? Consult the manufacturer if you are uncertain. Sometimes, it will have to be re-engineered, which may require expert consultation.
Note: Your pressure gauge can tell you a lot more than your operating pressure – it can indicate a problem with your regulator, pump, lines or overall sprayer engineering. Don’t ignore it – address it.
Thanks to Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic, for his contribution to this article.
January 13, 2021
Sprayer Wheel Maintenance
This article was co-written with Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic.
Sprayer wheel assemblies should be cleaned and inspected as part of regular annual maintenance. Wheel bearing maintenance before long-term storage may prevent water from corroding the bearings. The exploded diagram details the parts found in a typical trailed air-assist sprayer wheel assembly.
Exploded diagram of typical airblast sprayer wheel assembly.
The following procedure was performed on a 2012 Durand-Wayland sprayer by Mr. Murray Thiessen, Consulting Agricultural Mechanic and renowned “Sprayer Whisperer”. The steps are applicable to most sprayer makes and models. The entire process should take approximately half-an-hour per wheel.
Step 1
Empty the sprayer and park it in a well-lit, level spot. Un-hitch the tractor and raise one side of the sprayer using a bottle or floor jack to clear the wheel. Secure the sprayer with a jack stand.
Raise with one jack, secure with another.
Step 2
Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off the hub. Do not remove the wheel and hub together because it is heavy and you might bang the delicate seal on the spindle. Check the wheel rim for signs of corrosion or distortion (often caused by either loose or over-tightened lug nuts). Check the tread for wear or cuts and check the tire pressure.
Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off the hub.
Step 3
Remove the hub cap and pull out the cotter pin. Then remove the nut and washer that hold the hub on the spindle. Put all the small parts in a plastic container with some de-greaser (e.g. Varsol) to clean the parts and keep them from getting lost.
Remove the nut and washer that hold the hub on the spindle.
Step 4
Knock out the seal and hub bearing and put them in the plastic container. Unless it is damaged, there should be no need to remove the bearing cup (or race) from the hub. The seal is designed to keep dirt out of the assembly, not to keep grease from escaping. Be sure to note which way it is facing. The seal is often ruined during disassembly; have a replacement on hand.
Knock out the seal and hub bearing.
Step 5
Clean the old grease out of the hub. This hub has too much and it has filled much of the air space (or cavity) within the hub. That air space is provided so grease is not forced out as the hub heats up, and so dirt is not pulled in as the hub cools. Note the colour of the grease – if it is black and stains your hands, it has burned because too much grease has caused overheating. Look for evidence of dirt or water in the bearing, which indicates seal failure.
Clean the old grease out of the hub.
Step 6
Wipe dirt from the spindle. Never pressure-wash wheels when they are on the spindles because the spray drives dirt and water past the seal and into the hub. Inspect the sealing surface of the spindle for damage or wear.
Wipe dirt from the spindle.
Step 7
Clean the seal thoroughly. Seals are easily damaged and may need replacement.
Clean the seal thoroughly.
Step 8
Clean the hub bearing. Compressed air is a good way to get all the old grease out, but do not spin the bearing with the air.
Clean the hub bearing.
Step 9
Look for scratching, pitting or blue metal (indicating heat). This scorch mark indicates the bearing was moving on the spindle, and the friction created heat. Agricultural wheel bearings do not fit tight to the spindles. If there is too much clearance, the bearing race will turn on the spindle where it is not supposed to.
Look for scratching, pitting or blue metal (indicating heat).
Step 10
Repack the bearings, reassemble the hub and re-grease the hub. Bearings should only be ~40% full. Too much grease creates heat and does not let the bearing roll properly. Too little increases friction. No matter which grease you choose to use, never combine greases; they may not be chemically compatible.
Re-pack and reassemble.
Step 11
Mount the hub tightly on the spindle. Replace the washer, cotter pin, nut and cap. There is no need to bend the arms of a cotter pin all the way back – it weakens the metal. Just bend one arm to 90° and cut off the excess. Use anti-seize on the wheel pilot to make the rim easier to remove next time.
Mount the hub tightly on the spindle.
Some airblast sprayers (such as this Durand-Wayland) have wheel assemblies that can be rotated to four different positions in the chassis. This will raise or lower the sprayer to better align it with the tractor hitch and PTO shaft.
Step 12
Replace the wheel and rim. Do not grease the lug nuts or they might loosen. Over- or under-torqueing lug nuts can cause damage. Look in the manual for your correct torque and consider using a torque wrench. Tighten the nuts in a star-shaped pattern – not sequentially.
Replace the wheel and rim.
January 10, 2021